Monday, July 23, 2012

FAQ- What to wear

You can see from the picture above what Andrew and I wore on the track.
As per my earlier FAQ on pack weight/porters, try to pack the least amount of clothing possible. Everybody is hot and sweaty on the track so don't worry about it ;-)

I wore the same, long sleeved shirt every day. This was not a problem in regards to smell as we washed every day in streams along the way. This washing was the old fashioned way - rocks and soap !
The shirt is a very light, fibre type shirt available from camping stores here in Australia. It has many pockets for maps etc. I carried one spare tee shirt to wear at night in my sleeping bag. No thermals are required for the trek if you have a reasonably warm sleeping bag (it gets quite cold at night at 6000 feet)

The shorts are also hiking type shorts. I carried an additional pair of shorts for sleeping.

My hiking boots were bought new from Aussie disposals in Australia. It is extremely important to "run the boots in" before you head to Kokoda. I walked every weekend for three months getting used to the boots in Australia. This avoids blisters on teh track.

Take some good socks. I took three pairs of hiking socks and rotated them.

That's about it. There is a good saying on the track. There are two types of clothes on the track. Those that are wet, and those that are about to be wet ;-)

Take same waterproof plastic camping sacks to protect your clothes (and food/technology) if (and when) you end from falling into a creek ;-)
  

FAQ - How much technology to take

First, a confession - I am a technology junkie ;-)

You can see from here we went to Kokoda well equipped.

There are a couple of reasons for this.
1) I already owned the equipment as part of being a keen hiker, trial bike rider and private pilot
2) As I was going on a DIY trek, I wanted to ensure I was able to navigate myself at any time during the trek, for any reason.

For example, I pre-loaded my Garmin GPS with a track map.

People ask do they need all of this equipment; for example, do you need an epirb if you already have a gps and satellite phone ?

Most of the professional guides on the track carried a gps (quite a few carried the same model as mine) and satellite phone, This seems to be the optimum combination as the satellite phone had reception at most spots along the track; for example at the tops of peaks and in clear areas. The epirb is overkill.

FAQ - Vaccinations before you go to PNG

Papua New Guinea trekkers should ensure they have the following key vaccinations
In addition, trekkers need to protect themselves against Malaria by
1) Taking an anti malaria vaccination
2) Wearing long sleeved shirts and hiking trousers to avoid mosquito bites.

The CDC link above suggests mosquitos are present up to 6000 feet. This would mean that the entire Kokoda Track is in a mosquito risk zone. In speaking to both guides and locals on the track, consensus was that the key issue with malaria was below 1000 feet.
For what it is worth, we did not see any mosquitos above the sea level/port Moresby area, In regards to clothing, I wore a long sleeved shirt and shorts. The long sleeved shirt also protected me against sunburn. My legs were basically covered in mud most of the time so there was no need for trousers ;-).

We did not bring or use any special nets or protective equipment against mosquitos.

FAQ - To porter or not

On a Kokoda commercial trek, trekkers normally hire a porter to carry their packs. Most trekkers we saw were carrying day packs only with lunch and water etc.

I was keen to carry my own pack on the Track. After having completed many ten plus day walks in Australia and overseas, plus an Army Reserve background, I am quite comfortable with a pack with a starting weight well above 20 kilograms. 

Based on the heat and humidity on the Kokoda track, plus the mountainous terrain, it made sense to aim for the lowest pack starting weight possible. 

After many packings and re-packings in Australia, we ended up getting my pack starting weight to about 14 kilograms. In hindsight, I could have made it even lower (less food etc).

We ended up with about 4kg of food in my pack (about 400 grams per day). This is using freeze dried food to keep weight down. 


Our technology weighed north of 2kg. The medical kit was nearly one kilo. We carried every conceivable medicine, bandages, splints and creme. Other weight was made up of clothes (two sets), tent, sleeping bag etc. An additional items I carried was a 20 metre rope (for river crossings).

My thoughts on this are
1) Pack as light as possible
2) Practice with this pack back home before you head to Kokoda to get confident with the weight
3) If not confident with the pack, hire a porter when you get to Kokoda. 

FAQ - Cooking on the Track

We came quite prepared when it came to cooking. We carried a Trangia stove, which I personally consider one of the best all round camp cooking devices. The fuel for these, Methylated Spirits, can be bought from the general store at Kokoda.(airlines generally do not allow these types of inflammable liquids to fly).

 I also carried a classic army style aluminium stove with heximine tablets.

After all this preparation, we never ended up using either of these. We quickly found out that a camp fire is  obligatory every night !  As soon as we hit a campsite, Tony (our guide) would light a fire and start cooking dinner on same. We paid $5 Kina to the village each night for wood.

Still, it was good having the Trangia as it gave us the cooking pots/pans we needed !

In addition to this, in many of the villages, the locals offered to cook a hot meal for us. The food was generally Sweet Potato, Choko Vine and fresh fruit, at a charge of $5 Kina. This tasted great after days of freeze dried food. Based on how keen the locals were to cook for us, I think we could have carried half the food we did !

As a side note, a good thing was that PNG customs did not worry about any of our freeze dried food, peanut butter, dried fruit, muesli bars and nuts entering the country from Australia. Much cheaper buying these items in Australia than PNG.

FAQ - Getting from Owens Corner back to Port Moresby

The ride from Owens Corner to Port Moresby is an interesting challenge. It is about 30 miles from Owens Corner, the end of the Kokoda Track, back to Port Moresby. There is no regular, public transport that I could find. In my trip planning, I ended up going with the 'she'll be right mate" approach and assumed we would get a ride. Seemed quite easy to get a ride in PNG - It happened almost immediately on landing two weeks before at Popondetta airport. There are plenty of open top trucks travelling around PNG and all seem very friendly and keen to pick up travelers.

In practice, it worked out much easier for us. Tony, our guide, with over 50 treks under his belt, knew every passing guide and porter. We caught up with his brother in law, who was running a small Peregrine tour near the end of our trek. Tony wangled a ride back with these guys on their bus. Was more than happy to sling them about $A20 for the ride ;-)





FAQ - Where to stay in Port Moresby

As many people mentioned to us before we got there, Port Moresby is not a city one wants to spend too much time in. It has a high incidence rate of crime and violence, generally involving Raskol gangs
It is generally recommended to stay off the streets after dark. Note that we did not have any issues on our three night stay in Port Moresby.

We stayed at the Comfort Inn which is in Boroko. This hotel is very convenient (5 minute walk) to the Kokoda track Authourity (KTA) offices where we bought our track passes. Cost was about $A100 per day with a free shuttle to the airport


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